The appeal of organic skincare is steadily growing but views on this segment of the beauty industry are still mixed, writes SYIDA LIZTA AMIRUL IHSAN.

THE hit item at the event wasn’t even a product you could buy off the shelves.

It was a home-made lip scrub whipped up with organic sugar cane and olive oil that not only left the pout softer, but was literally good enough to eat.

“If it’s not good enough for your body, it’s not good enough for your skin,” said entrepreneur Michelle Chen, the newest player in the country’s organic skincare retail scene, bringing in brands such as Sanctum, Mukti, Remedica and Organic Indulgence into her multibrand chain, Bodybar.

“Have you tried putting shampoo on your tongue? It leaves an acrid taste that can make you throw up. But why do you put it on your hair?” she asked the guests.

Be it hype or hope, organic skincare is making its presence felt globally.

Lauded by fans as being safe, chemical-free and better for the skin, organic skincare, which was once collecting dust on the back shelves of shops, is now at the forefront of business.

The big guns of beauty are already riding the wave.

Origins, which belongs to cosmetic giant Estee Lauder, has an organic range.

In 2006, L’Oreal acquired French organic skincare brand Sanoflore and, a year later, bought PureOlogy, an American haircare brand known for its sulphate-free shampoo, as a “natural, ecological positioning”.

Organic skincare brands often start small — sometimes in a makeshift lab in the kitchen. Most came about after the founders searched for alternatives, be it for a child’s eczema or for adult skin sensitivity.

Buds and Cherub Rubs — both organic skincare for babies — were founded by parents looking for a better choice for their children.

Madara was formed in Latvia in 2005 when four young friends wanted better products made of plants from their country.

Malaysian firm The Apothecary and Company brought in United Kingdom’s Saaf Pure Skincare, said to be the world’s first halal and organic certified skincare range in Malaysia.

Kay Liew, who owns TNS Skinlab outlets in Malaysia where Saaf is sold, said the organic movement isn’t a hype but a change of consciousness in environmental and soil ethics.

“Consumers are finally taking a stand to support people who cultivate plants for the benefit of the planet,” said Liew.

Her stores carry organic skincare — some certified, others not, including Australia’s Absolutely Gorgeous and Stem, New Zealand’s Trilogy and Saaf.

However, dermatologist Dr Koh Chuan Keng disagrees with the trend, saying that some synthetic chemicals are engineered for the skin so they may be many times better than organic skin care.

“I think organic skincare is only 10 per cent science and 90 per cent hype.

“If you are looking for skincare products, ingredients aren’t the most important thing to look for. Efficacy is most important. It has to work.

“Secondly, it should not cause allergies; and thirdly, it must be non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn’t aggravate or cause acne,” said Koh.

But more customers are opting for organic skincare.

Administrator Ho Jue Kee said her shift to organic skincare happened after a friend bought her an eye cream made of organic ingredients.

“It was just as good as a counter brand and it was natural. All my skincare now — including shampoo — are organic and, as for prices, they are about the same as counter brand products. They are just as efficient, if not better,” said Ho.

For public relations associate Ashley Ho, her shift to organic skincare was a steady move.

“I was looking at safe products for the skin and most organic skincare is expensive.

And then I found Madara, which is affordable and efficient.

“What I want is simple — to know the ingredients. I want to know what goes into the products. I don’t want a list of chemicals that I don’t understand.

“We may not be environmental warriors or tree huggers but we hope that by choosing organic skincare, we reduce the amount of chemicals we put on our skin and also support a sustainable Earth for a better future,” she said.

Unlike conventional skincare, the shelf life of organic products range between 18 and 24 months, after which the texture, smell and efficacy may change.

Once opened, the products should be used up within three to six months.

“I guess it’s like food. Canned food lasts longer but fresh food is better for you,” Chen said.

But the popularity of organic skincare has propelled some companies to use the word “organic” in a misleading way — if you look at the ingredient listing, you will find only one organic ingredient while the rest are synthetic, just like conventional skincare.

Chen thinks this isn’t good enough.

“It’s like putting fruits in chemicals. What’s the point?” For Liew, education is key.

“Consumers need to read the ingredients and not be swayed by a name alone. And you need to read up more.” General practitioner Dr Munirah Shuib uses a mix of organic and conventional skincare and does not believe the claim that organic skincare is better for the skin.

“A lot of research needs to be done on the effects of skincare products, regardless of whether they are organic or conventional.

“These are long-term research or studies (at a minimum of five years) that need to be carried out before a product is deemed safe or good for the skin.” “Being organic does not necessarily mean it is good for the skin. Perhaps it is better for our planet than our skin as the waste products of organic skincare may be more biodegradable,” said Dr Munirah.

Her sentiment echoed that of nutrition professor Joan Gussow, quoted by Marion Nestle in her book What To Eat.

While Gussow’s opinion is about organic vegetables, the same principles should apply for topical organic products.

“Isn’t this the most important story? That organic production conserves natural resources, solves rather than creates environmental problems and reduces the pollution of air, water, soil... and food?” In years to come, scientists may find out if organic skincare is indeed better for the skin but, in the meantime, choosing it means selecting something better for the Earth we live in.

And isn’t that a worthwhile choice to make?